For us, the Langhe is an incredibly
special place that still holds dear the human values of community
and endeavour. Surrounded by rolling hills and blessed by warm
breezes, the region lies to the west of the Maritime Alps. To the
south lie Liguria and the Italian Riviera, areas rich in beauty and
culture.
Whilst striving to make their family
businesses successful, the people have not lost sight of what's
important: helping each other. This generosity of spirit is evident
across the Langhe. Whilst the locals − the Piemontese − are
difficult to get to know at first (history has taught them to be
wary of strangers), once trust develops they are some of the most
friendly and warm people you could ever wish to meet. For us,
Barolo captures the spirit of the Langhe, hard to understand at
first, but with a little patience, a rich and highly rewarding
experience awaits.
In the words of Giovanni Avpino, a famous
local writer:
"The antique soul of Barolo possesses
sparks and tones that we, during the passing of time, have lost.
Now it is very rare to find the man worthy of such a deserving
bottle, whereas some time ago one could say the
opposite."
Visiting the area has taught us to
appreciate food, wine and the hard, passionate labour required to
make great produce. The Langhe is famous for white Alba truffles
and also snails and chocolate from Cherasco. Hazelnuts from across
the region are interwoven between the vineyards, and the vegetables
(which are only eaten in season) are a sight to behold. There is no
supermarket-driven uniformity here, but a ripeness that is
jam-packed with sweetness and flavour. If you love to cook, to be
at Alba market on a Saturday morning is simply heaven. The sights
and smells are amazing and the choice of herbs, fruits, and cheeses
almost limitless.
For us, the greatest experience has been
the friendships we have made, especially amongst the wine makers,
who at their heart are humble farmers despite the global stage they
have built for one of the greatest red wines of Italy. Tastings at
the cantinas are just great fun and also a fantastic insight into
the culture. After over 15 years we have started to understand what
has shaped the wines of this area - not just the terroir but the
vision, love and energy of its people.
Life has not always been easy for these
farmers. One of the defining features of the landscape are the
castellos which tell the tale of many wars. Being so close to the
French, Swiss and Austrian borders, this area has been a
battleground for many European wars from the Renaissance period
right through to the Second World War when the Piemontese were
fierce in their resistance to the Nazis.
Vineyards have thrived in the Langhe for
centuries and yet, despite the many vineyards, historically local
farmers have focussed on arable farming, selling their grapes on to
the big wine cooperatives until well into the 1970s when producers
really began to bottle and market their wines under their own
labels. In fact, it wasn't until the 1990 vintage that Barolo got
noticed. Indeed if you look in many international wine guides prior
to this date, commentary about this great wine is
limited.
Now of course many people have heard of
Barolo, but few understand what makes it a great wine or indeed
have the patience to discover its secrets. Once you have visited
the Langhe, you will begin to understand the story…